Jan came out of the ladies' toilet in the reception area of
Luther King House with an interesting observation: it was twinned with a toilet
in Honduras. A photo on the wall showed her that the Honduran toilet was a
small corrugated metal shack. The twinned toilet had been selected by the
students of Luther King House.
We were visiting Manchester to meet a friend who Jan met at
university in Pamplona in the 1970s, and who was attending a course in
Manchester. One of her last names is Roca, a name that will be familiar to any
of you who have visited Spain. Roca, a firm founded by her engineer father with
his two brothers, makes just about all the bathroom and toilet fittings in
Spain (originally, they also made tiles, but decided that it was better to dominate
one industry rather than compete with others in tile manufacture). The three
brothers divided the labour of setting up the business: one took a job in a
factory France where bathroom fittings were superior to those in Spain to study
manufacturing techniques; another was in charge of marketing and distribution;
and our friend’s father designed the products.
Our friend is the eldest of eleven children. She grew up in
a home in Barcelona where her father designed four sets of literas, bunk
beds: four sets of three beds to accommodate eleven children. The family was
profoundly Catholic; several of the sons are now priests. Our friend is a numeraria
of Opus Dei, a Catholic order. Numerarias are celibate women who devote their
lives to God.
Our friend was staying in Coniston Hall, a female only
student residence managed by a Christian educational trust. A short walk from
the hall is the Elizabeth Gaskell House, the home of the 19th-century
novelist and her husband William Gaskell, assistant Unitarian minister of Cross
Street Unitarian Chapel, who she married in 1832. William was also Chair for
thirty years of the Portico Library. The library summarizes its history thus:
“The Portico Library was established by 400 founding
subscribers in 1806, during Manchester’s emergence as ‘the first modern city’.
Early readers and associates included word-famous authors, future Prime
Ministers, leading scientists, and educators. Built with wealth derived from
the Industrial Revolution, British empire-building, and colonial expansion, the
Library amassed a collection that reflects the innovations, but also the
exclusions and inequities of its time.
The Library’s early members—all men until the Married
Women’s Property Act of 1870—included people of various political positions,
from Radical and Liberal abolitionists and anti-poverty campaigners to
exploitative factory owners and textile traders. Many members were
non-conformists and several wrote influential books, such as our first
Secretary Peter Mark Roget, who wrote the first English thesaurus, and founder
of atomic theory, John Dalton. Celebrated Manchester author Elizabeth Gaskell
used the Library while her husband William acted as its longest-serving Chair.”
I can heartily recommend a visit to the Gaskell House.
Although there are a limited number of exhibits that belonged to the Gaskells,
the house has been carefully furnished to give visitors a vivid impression of
the house in Gaskell’s time. Similarly, the garden (much reduced in size from
the Gaskells’ Garden) has been planted based on scanty evidence gleaned from
Gaskell’s letters and novels. Where possible, varieties from Gaskell’s time
have been planted. The volunteers are uniformly enthusiastic and well-informed.
The Gaskells were much involved in education and social causes in Manchester. In
addition to his preaching duties, William provided education to some of the
city’s poorest children, and (he spoke German) taught the city’s German workers
English. The Gaskells taught poor children from a local school Sunday school
lessons in their home.
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| The Gaskell House. |
Their home was also functioned as a salon welcoming those
involved in the arts, intellectual life and social issues. Charles Halle,
founder of the famous Halle orchestra taught their daughters piano, and two
daughters trained as painters. Charlotte Brontë visited the house and Charles
Dickens was Elizabeth’s editor – some of her novels were published in the
journal Household Words, edited by Dickens. Apparently, she was not very
good with deadlines and exasperated Dickens.
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| The Gaskell House drawing room. |
The volunteer in the dining room, which also functioned as a
study where Elizabeth wrote her novels, told us the touching story of Elizabeth’s
death. She was a great traveller and travelled to Europe several times with her
daughters (her passport for a tour of Italy is displayed in the Drawing Room). A few paintings by her daughters suggest that
they had the full Grand Tour experience. William, on the other hand, showed no
interest in foreign parts and limited his excursions to walks in the Lake
District, Peak District and Scotland.
William evidently had no desire to be anywhere other than
Manchester. Nevertheless, Elizabeth plotted a surprise. She evidently had
enough accumulated wealth to buy a house in Hampshire for their retirement. She
arranged this in secret with one of her sons-in-law (since by law she could not
own property). She travelled with him to Hampshire where the contract was
signed; there she had a heart attack and died. William never moved to Hampshire
and the house was eventually sold.
Our lodgings, Luther King House, originated with the Baptist
Theological Institution, founded in 1871. In 1964 Manchester Baptist College
and Rawdon College of Bradford merged to form the Northern Baptist College. The
original Victorian building was replaced with a very 1960s brick building. In
1984 the college was renamed Luther King House to provide an inclusive training
base for Baptist, United Reformed, Methodist, and Unitarian traditions,
alongside providing accommodations and conference facilities. It grants MA and
PhD degrees through Durham University. Its facilities include 50+ simple
bedrooms, an important theological library, a peaceful cloister and a
chapel. The warm welcome of its staff
makes up for what it lacks in boutique luxury. Frequent yellow Bee buses take
visitors to the universities and city centre.
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| Luther King House cloister. |
Birchfields Park and Platt Fields Park are a few minutes’
walk from Luther King House. Platt Fields is a large park with an historic
house (Platt Hall), a lake, a cycle hub, a community orchard, a market garden
and a Shakespearean Garden, which alas we lacked time to find. Also nearby are
the many restaurants on Wilmslow Road (Indian, Turkish, Middle Eastern, a
Mexican grill and so on) and numerous jewellers selling elaborate gold jewelry.
We had dinner in a Palestinian restaurant, decorated with a neon-lit 3-D model
of the Dome of the Rock at the far end and a prayer room. Famously of various
ethnicities were playing with their children in Birchfields Park and strolling
to dinner on Wilmslow Road. This is the Britain that our far right parties
would rather had never existed.
Our new Prime Minister held his first meetings in the No.10
of the North in Manchester today (24 July), the day after we left, so he was,
alas, unable to meet us. Had he done so we would have given his city the thumbs
up.