Saturday 17 April 2021

Farewell to the Sistine Chapel of the Meseta Tarasca

 

My parent-in-laws were members of the Religious Society of Friends, known to most of us as Quakers. Their meeting house at Jordans is described in Simon Jenkins’ England’s Thousand Best Churches as the Quaker Westminster Abbey. Quakers believe in simplicity, so Jordans did not have any of the studied grandeur of the great Abbey, but its very simplicity is beautiful and speaks of the values of those who built it in 1688. This was one of the first meeting houses built after James II’s Declaration of Indulgence of 1687 allowed non-conformists to worship lawfully. William Penn (of Pennsylvania fame) is buried here alongside his two wives and nine children, as are a number of others significant in Quaker history.

 


Jordans Meeting House, Jordans, Buckinghamshire

Friends had met at Jordans for more than three centuries until, in 2005, fire destroyed the oak-beamed roof, but the interior and most of the leaded windows survived. Jordans is a listed building, so the manner of its retoration after the fire was managed by English Heritage, a process that took a number of years. Fortunately, only the most expert visitor would now detect any sign that the meeting house had been severely damaged.

 

I hope that the same will be said of one of the great glories of Mexican art and architecture, the church of Santiago el Apóstol (St James the Apostle) in Nurio, a town set in the splendid landscape of the Meseta Tarasca (Tarascan Plateau), home to many of the Purhépecha people, descendants of the Tarascans who ruled a 15th/16th century empire whose capital, Tzintzuntzan, in Michoacán, stood above the shores of Lake Pátzcuaro.

 

The evangelization of Michoacán in the first years of Spanish colonial rule was led by Bishop Vasco de Quiroga. Quiroga’s Franciscan friars tended not only to the spiritual health of the Indigenous people of Michoacán, but also, to some degree at least, to their medical health. Where they compelled the Purhépecha to build churches they also built hospitals (huataperas), adjacent to the house of God. One of the most splendid of these is the church of Nurio, and its huatapera.

 

Lake Pátzcuaro from Tzintzuntzan

Yácatas (temple platforms) at Tzintzuntzan

The World Monuments Fund, which had financed restoration of the church in 2000-2004 Describes the church thus:

Construction of the Apostle Santiago Church was initiated in the 16th century in the Michoacán Sierra to form part of a huatápera, or hospital complex. The complex was built by the Spanish Renaissance humanist and bishop of Michoacán, Vasco de Quiroga, who was sent to the New World by the Spanish Crown to investigate accusations of improper conduct being leveled against the conquistadors. The church’s interior boasts elaborate decorations from the 17th and 18th centuries in the Mexican Baroque style, which combined mudéjar carpentry and paintings done in the maque technique, a pre-Hispanic painting method that incorporates natural oils and minerals. The painted, exposed wood structure, including the coffered ceiling, was subject to insect infestation, fungal attack and exposure to moisture, leaving the interior finishes with iconographic paintings and decorative paint on the architectural elements in poor condition.

Between 2000 and 2004 WMF, through the Robert W. Wilson Challenge to Conserve Our Heritage, supported the restoration of the polychrome wood ceilings, mural paintings, portals, and ornate altarpieces. The project specifically focused on the consolidation and repair of wooden architectural features and the stabilization and conservation of decorative paint.

The church’s elaborate decorations represent a variety of both native and European styles, techniques, and materials. The establishment of the settlement, which was inspired by Thomas Moore’s Utopia, represents an important point in colonial history, as humanist efforts such as Quiroga’s recognized the rights of the indigenous people.”

 

The temple of the huatapera of Nurio

Jan and I visited Nurio briefly in 2018 with a group of demographic historians attending a conference at the Colegio de Michoacán, in Zamora, some 54km distant. The great glories of the church are (or rather were) its retablo (altar screen) and sotocoro, a vaulted wooden ceiling beneath the choir under which worshippers passed as they came to mass. Alas, on Sunday 7 March fire ravaged the church, leaving only four charred walls standing.

 

Sunday 7 March 2021

The 7 March 2021 fire and its aftermath

A report of the fire in the English-language edition of El País noted that criminal violence in Michoacán has deterred most tourists from visiting Nurio and its church in recent years, adding “Visitors who had the luck to visit over the years have only their memories to comfort them today.” While Jan and I are profoundly saddened by the news of the fire, we are fortunate to have just such memories. We also have some (not very expert) photos, which I am sharing here.


The façade of Santiago Apóstol

 
Decoration of the sotocoro


The altar, Santiago Apóstol   

The altar, Santiago Apóstol

Monday 12 April 2021

Political Principles and Consequences: AMLO of Mexico and Boris Johnson of the United Kingdom

 

Those unsympathetic to Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO) and/or Boris Johnson might think that both seem to lack principles, but they have adhered to certain quite fixed ideas with consequences for their countries. In AMLO’s case, one might cite two examples: energy independence and the conviction that Mexico’s ills have been created by corrupt conservatives who have ruled the country for their own benefit. In Johnson’s case the slogan “Get Brexit done” sums up the credo he has espoused, whether out of conviction or political pragmatism is not entirely clear. From both of these positions flow a number of significant consequences.

 

AMLO’s devotion to energy independence appeals to an episode that is a soure of great pride for most Mexicans. In the early decades of the 20th century US, British and Dutch petroleum companies were enormously powerful in Mexico. They bullied weak Mexican governments and treated Mexican workers less favourably than their foreign employees. Their behaviour wounded Mexican national pride to its very core.

 

Workers in Mexico City demand the expropriation of petroleum. The banner to the right reads: Mexican petroleum for the greatness of Mexico

Article 27 of the constitution of 1917 states that the Mexican nation owns all rights to the subsoil, and therefore to petroleum and mineral deposits. For two decades Article 27 was a dead letter, but then in 1937 the Sindicato de Trabajadores Petroleros de la República Mexicana (Union of Petroleum Workers of the Mexican Republic), the oil workers union, demanded a 40 hour week and full sick pay. The companies refused and the workers went on strike. When arbitration failed, on 18 March 1938 President Lázaro Cárdenas signed a decree that nationalized the oil industry, and on 7 June he created a state company, Petróleos Mexicanos (PEMEX), to manage it. 18 March is now a public holiday and the expropriation is commemorated by a monument on the main boulevard of Mexico City, the Paseo de la Reforma.

 

The Fuente de Petróleos monument as it looked in 1952

The Fuente de Petróleos as it looks today from the air

PEMEX was for a long time the largest oil company in Latin America and one of the largest in the world. It was, alas, also systematically robbed by corrupt managers, union bosses and politicians. It is now enormously indebted and inefficient. Despite its large oil reserves, Mexico imports petroleum because PEMEX lacks refining capacity. AMLO’s predecessor (one of his corrupt conservatives – and, alas, he deserves the label) Enrique Peña Nieto (EPN) attempted to reform the Mexican energy industry (oil and electricity) by opening it up to foreign investors and competition.

 

To AMLO this was anathema. He has taken steps to reverse EPN’s reforms of both the oil and electricity industries. AMLO has plans for PEMEX to build a new refinery in his home state, Tabasco, to end Mexico’s dependence on petroleum imports. This decision has a number of significant consequences. Firstly, PEMEX, deeply in debt, lacks the capital to fund the project: the solution is to incur yet more debt. If PEMEX had a track record of efficiently building and managing refineries (it does not), was investing in an energy sector of the future at just the right time (it is not), and was free of the corruption that AMLO denounces (it is not), this might be a wise decision. Instead, it would be no great surprise if the refinery were to be a financial and environmental disaster.

 

A PEMEX refinery

Energy independence also has consequences for the electricity industry. You might think that Mexico is a country in which solar generation of electricity could flourish. However, when Jan and I lived in Zamora, Michoacán, I was surprised to look out from our flat roof across our neighbourhood to see not a single solar panel. Nor are solar panels much in evidence in the Bahía de Banderas region of the Pacific coast where our son Chris lives and sunshine is abundant. There were hopes that international firms might create a renewable energy boom in Mexico, but this falls foul both of AMLO’s energy independence and of his faith in the future of PEMEX and oil. He has excluded international investment from renewables, and shows no interest in encouraging the Comisión Federal de Electricidad (Federal Electricity Commission) to create a renewable enegry sector. The consequences of energy independence will be increased debt and increased carbon emissions at a time when the world may at last be about to reduce CO2 emissions, and as oil companies themselves beging to talk of investing in renewables.

 

AMLO is certainly correct to identify corruption as a serious problem. He has concluded that: “When there is no corruption we can finance the budget. As we are demonstrating, the country doesn’t need to get into debt, we don’t need to increase taxes or increase the price of gasoline.” AMLO calls “republican austerity”. The problem is that he seems to believe that by declaring that corruption will be eliminated it simply disappears. Unfortunately, it has not, in part because his own government is not entirely free of corrupt practices. Nevertheless, he has refused to increase the national debt, even in the face of the pandemic. With the notable exception of PEMEX borrowing to fund the new refinery. The result has been depressed growth and severe budget cuts in sectors such as higher education and cultural institutions such as the Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia (National Institute of Anthropology and History), which managed Mexico’s numerous public museums, archaeological sites and monuments. And the public health system continues to be underfunded.

 

Since AMLO is convinced that corrupt conservatives are his enemies, it follows, in his mind, that anybody who criticizes him is a corrupt conservative. Now, one of the words that Mexico has contributed to the international lexicon is feminicidio (femicide). On average 10 women are killed violently every day in Mexico. Police and prosecuting authorities have taken no effective action to punish these crimes effectively or to reduce the numbers of women subjected to violence with impunity. Women’s groups have protested vigorously against the crimes and lack of government action to protect women. Since these protests are directed against AMLO’s administration, the protesters are, by definition, corrupt conservatives. AMLO is absolutely unperturbed by the deaths of thousands of Mexican women, but he is absolutely indignant that women should protest against his inaction. Rather as Donald Trump surrounded the White House with fencing to keep out protesters, AMLO surrounded the Palacio Nacional (his residence and office) with fencing to keep out women protesters. The protesters promptly decorated the fencing with portraits of murdered women.

 

The names of murdered women displayed on the fence outside the Palacio Nacional in Mexico City. The cardboard sign reads "If we don't fight together they will kill us separately"

Rather as AMLO’s energy independence appeals to nationalist sentiment and a vision of a glorious past, Get Brexit Done is a promise to free Britain from the supposed control of dastardly foreigners and for sovereignty to flourish: one might say to Make Britain Great Again. Johnson’s argument has been that this requires a complete break in order that the UK exercise its sovereignty untrammelled in any way by EU restrictions. In particular, the UK negotiators refused to accept anything that would subject the UK to the jurisdiction of the European Court of Justice or that required the UK to conform to EU rules and standards. The professed goal is to turn the UK into a Global Britain (Johnson likes slogans that mask complex realities).

 

By “Getting Brexit Done” Johnson has been able to claim that he is a brilliant negotiator who succeeded where his predecessor, Teresa May, failed dismally. The result, he boasts, is one of the largest free trade deals in the world, negotiated in record time. This is not entirely untrue, in that the trading arrangements with the EU impose no tariffs on British goods, but Johnson’s boast conveniently ignores the non-tariff barriers that have been erected in order to surrender not a scintilla of sovereignty to the EU.

 

Before Brexit all British foodstuffs could be exported without any restrictions to the other 27 countries of the EU because, as an EU member, the UK had agreed to observe EU food sanitary standards. However, Global Britain requires that the UK no longer accept EU standards as a given. Each exporter, therefore, must prove for every delivery that the exported foodstuffs meet EU standards. One example will suffice. A large proportion of British bivalve shellfish (mussels, oysters, clams, cockles, scallops) are (or rather were) exported to EU countries. Immediately after they had been harvested the shellfish would be delivered to the customer, who would then prepare the bivalves for consumption in purification tanks. Since the UK is now a third country, the EU states that this is no longer possible. The shellfish must be purified in the UK before they can be sent to the EU. This poses two problems.  Because the EU portion of their production had never required purification in the UK, the UK industry has insufficient purification capacity. Moreover, purifying the shellfish in the UK shortens the shelf life of the product in the EU. All exports to the EU have now been stopped by Johnson’s free trade deal. The relevant government minister has told the shellfish producers that they must either invest in more purification tanks, or freeze the shellfish and sell it to more remote markets.

 

A large assortment of such third party costs, which impose an equally large assortment of new costs on exporters, such as veterinary inspections, rules of origin certificates and other certifications, have been imposed on businesses in the name of sovereignty.

 

However, perhaps the most consequential concomitant of Brexit sovereignty is the possible dissolution of the United Kingdom itself. Scotland, a thoroughly anti-Brexit, anti-Boris Johnson part of the UK, has already considered independence in 2014. The issue has not gone away and a sovereign Brexit will likely increase support for independence in Scotland.

 

But the first constitutional flashpoint is in Northern Ireland. It is worth reminding ourselves that the name of our country is the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland. There is a clue in the name: Northern Ireland is in some ways, and to some degree separate from, the other three constituent nations. Firstly, the other three nations together occupy one island, one space. Northern Ireland, also known as Ulster, shares a separate island, once a British colony, with Éire, the Republic of Ireland. The inhabitants of Northern Ireland are divided just as the island of Ireland is. Unionists are profoundly suspicious of the Republic and are fervently determined to remain constitutionally part of the UK. Nationalists want quite the opposite: a “border poll” or referendum, as provided for in the Good Friday Agreement of 1998, and reunification with the Republic. These divisions are mirrored in religious divisions (Catholic/Protestant), schools (divided by religion), cities (the Belfast “Peace Wall” divides the capital’s Unionist and Nationalist communities), and names (the city that Unionists know as Londonderry is to Nationalists Derry), and community rituals (many Unionists are Orangemen, named for William of Orange, who parade on 12 July to commemorate the Protestant victory at the Battle of the Boyne; Nationalists have their own community events, most recently a mass funeral for a former IRA fighter).

 

Northern Ireland complicated Brexit since the Northern Ireland Act, which implemented the Good Friday Agreement, was signed by the British and Irish governments and is lodged with the United Nations. One effect of the Act was to remove the border that had separated the Republic and Northern Ireland. Since, at the time the UK and the Republic were members of the EU the abolition of the border was easy to implement since people and goods move freely throughout the EU. However, Brexit sovereignty removes the UK from all the EU’s arrangements and therefore requires that a border be drawn somewhere. The alternative of remaining within EU structures so as to avoid a border was anathema to Brexiters. This matter alone delayed the implementation of Brexit for three years and ended the political career of Prime Minister Teresa May.

 

Mrs May negotiated with the EU an arrangement informally known as the Irish Backstop. For my American friends, this is a cricket term that denotes a fielder positioned behind the batsman (or nowadays batswoman) and the wicket keeper. The backstop is the last line of defence to prevent the ball reaching the boundary and four runs being scored. The backstop kept the UK and the EU in a common customs territory until the two parties agreed an alternative arrangement, by means of a trade agreement. The alternative, Mrs May declared were a border on the island of Ireland or a border down the Irish Sea (i.e. between Great Britain and Northern Ireland). The former is prohibited by the Northern Ireland Act, the latter, Mrs May declared could not be accepted by any British Prime Minister. Very few MPs (even those of her own party) or political parties accepted the backstop.

 

Unable to secure support in the House of Commons Mrs May resigned and Boris Johnson “Got Brexit Done” by agreeing the very thing that May said no Prime Minister could accept: an agreement with the EU (the Northern Ireland Protocol) which creates border controls between Great Britain and Northern Ireland. Johnson denied that this was so: there would be no border, no forms and if anybody was required to fill in a form to move goods to Northern Ireland from Great Britain Johnson himself would throw the form in the bin. Indeed, he told the people of Northern Ireland, they had their cake and could eat it too: they remained in the EU single market and customs union with free access to the world’s largets market, and would benefit from any trade agreements that the UK negotiated with and non-EU countries. Now, Johnson is not so stupid that he reached an agreement that he did not understand. He simply needed to “Get Brexit Done” and did so by agreeing a border between two parts of the UK and then falsely denying that he had done any such thing.  

 

The lie was soon exposed. Some goods that had been sold from Great Britain to Northern Ireland could no longer be delivered. Shipping routes were diverted to import goods from the EU to the Republic and from there on to Northern Ireland. Supermarkets found that they could not obtain certain goods from Great Britain. And so on. This has infuriated the Unionist community and their political representatives. In the last week or so Unionists have staged riots daily in Belfast and the violence has now spread to Republican districts. Faced with the consequences of his lies, in January Johnson violated the agreement he had signed with the EU by extending the period for which the introduction of certain border controls would be delayed to ease implementation from a few months to 2023. This has not placated the Unionists.

 

Riots at the Belfast Peace Wall

Both AMLO and Boris Johnson have secured political power on the basis of slogans dressed up as high principles, without regard to the consequences of their decisions. Mexicans and Britons are now paying  the price.

Friday 2 April 2021

Eggs, Easter and the BBC

 

I wish a very cordial  happy Easter to my friends and their families. This item has an Easter theme, combined with a brief reflection on contemporary British politics.

 

I am an early riser, and begin my day preparing breakfast. While I cut up our breakfast fruit, I listen to BBC Radio 4. On Sundays, breakfast preparation coincides with Something Understood (last Sunday the Dalai Lama exploring the philosophy of the mind) and Natural Histories, which featured a topical investigation of the egg in religion, art and literature.

 

The egg, it turns out, is an extraordinary feat of design and engineering. It must be very strong, to resist accidental breaking, yet fragile enough for the chick to break out. It keeps the chick dry while being sufficiently porous to allow oxygen to enter.

 

Carl Fabergé’s famous bejewelled eggs are elaborate pieces whose roots lie in Russian Easter traditions. A humble peasant may be given a real egg as an Easter gift symbolic of rebirth. A wealthier person might be given a porcelain egg. And for the mega-rich there were Fabergé eggs. Apparently, Fabergé made 50 eggs, of which the current location of 43 is known. One egg, last seen in a sale in 1943, was an elaborately decorated affair, which contained a bejewelled miniature vanity set.

 

The Coronation Coach Egg by Carl Fabergé, presented to Tsarina Alexandra Feodorovna on Easter Day in 1897 by Tsar Nicholas II

The segment about Fabergé included an interview with a jeweller at Wartski’s, a shop in St James's Street that I could never hope to visit as a customer. But one day in the early 1990s I called there for lunch with the proprietor, Kenneth Snowman, a bon viveur (a fine lunch washed down by two bottles of “frightfully good pinot noir dear boy”), and the world expert on Fabergé.

 

The Third Imperial Easter Egg by Carl Fabergé

Kenneth’s father, Emanuel Snowman, was the son of Polish Jewish parents. In the 1920s Emanuel travelled to Russia with Armand Hammer. While Hammer bought oil fields for knock-down prices, between 1927 and 1933 Emanuel bought art, including nine Fabergé eggs, at equally keen prices. Kenneth grew up with Fabergé and became the world’s leading expert. He was once asked to authentic an egg due to be sold at one of the great auction houses. Kenneth confirmed that in his opinion the piece was an authentic Fabergé. It sold for a fortune. Several years later the owner offered the same egg for sale and the auction house approached Kenneth to re-authenticate it. This time Kenneth declared that it was not a Fabergé. The irate owner demanded to know why his egg was once a Fabergé but was no longer. Kenneth replied urbanely “I changed my mind”.  

 

Wartski's current premises on St James's Street, London

Kenneth’s trade introduced him to many of the world’s rich and famous. Wartski’s website has a photo of Kenneth walking down Regent Street with Bing Crosby. He was also a friend of Ian Fleming and must be the only art historian to have advised 007 at an auction of a Fabergé jeweled egg. Kenneth appears by name in Fleming’s short story The Property of a Lady.

 

Kenneth Snowman, right, with Bing Crosby on Regent Street. At that time Wartski's shop was on Regent Street

The most curious item discussed in the BBC programme was the egg face library of the Clowns International, a professional association formed in 1947 as The International Circus Clowns Club by Stan Built, a circus enthusiast. A condition of membership is that each new applicant must have her/his own unique face. To ensure that every new applicant’s face has never been used previously, the club needed a record of members’ face designs. Stan had a ready-made solution, for since 1946 he had travelled to circus performances throughout Britain to paint portraits of clowns’ faces on eggs. Initially, the registry consisted of portraits on real eggs, but in due course these were replaced by porcelain eggs. Until recently, the eggs could be seen at the Clowns’ Gallery Museum in Holy Trinity church in Dalston, London. Alas, the church is undergoing restoration and the eggs are in storage.

 

Egg clown portraits. Lou Jacobs is no relation

This brings me to the political element of this story. The BBC is, in my experience, one of the great treasures of British culture. Its range of programming is admirable and its standards of content and impartiality superior to any other broadcaster of which I am aware. It is therefore viscerally loathed by its commercial competitors and by politicians who consider that the BBC does not always see the world the way they do. These politicians come from across the political spectrum, but the most persistent in seeking to destroy the BBC are from the right and, in particular, the Conservative Party.

 

Brexit created a particularly dangerous environment for the BBC, since it fostered the most visceral divisions in society that I have seen in my lifetime. Brexit is a highly ideological issue, and those who feel passionately about it frequently care little for fact or accuracy. At its root is either a deeply-held belief in a common European sense of community or a profound loathing of anything European. Since the Conservative Brexiters won and now control the political debate in this country, they naturally expect the BBC to promote their views. The BBC, does not in their view, reflect the views and values of the nation. The problem is that if the views and values of the nation were that black is white, the BBC does not report that as fact.

 

Brexit combines a dangerous mix of values and views. At its root is an intense nationalism which translates into pride in a version of British history which preaches that our Empire was a fine human achievement that brought civilization to vast swathes of the world. To suggest that the Empire was built on foundations of white domination, racism and slavery is to invite vituperation. And symbols of national pride – statues, the flag, the monarchy etc.   are sacrosanct. Government minsters now appear for interview with a large government-issue flag and bookshelf behind them. Sometimes, in a limited domestic space, the arrangement can be haphazard or slightly comical. One hapless BBC interviewer gently teased a minister about the way he had displayed his flag. This was interpreted by the BBC-bashers as sneering at the flag. They seem to lack a sense of humour.

 

Minister Robert Jenrick with his insufficiently prominent flag

As I listened to the Dalai Lama and learned about the egg register of clowns, I reflected that its enemies might succeed in destroying the BBC, or forcing it to conform to the mindset of nationalist zealots. What then would I listen to as I make breakfast on a Sunday?