During a recent walk
along the River Alde, at Snape in my native Suffolk, a sailing barge passed by.
Such barges were once a common sight on the coast and rivers of Suffolk. My
grandfather Harry Lucas captained a barge called the Raybel and his son Arthur sailed
on the Thalatta. In the bookshop at Snape Maltings I picked up a book (Robert
Malster, Maritime Suffolk), which, to my surprise, includes a few pages
about a piratical escapade off the coast of Baja California, Mexico, in 1587.
It might seem a rather
long leap to go from the contemporary backwaters of Suffolk to the Pacific, but
in the 16th-century the east coast ports were among the most
important in England. Dunwich, most of which was long ago swallowed by the
North Sea, supplied a large part of the fleet that defeated the Armada of
Felipe II, king of Spain. While his compatriots battled the Spanish, Thomas
Cavendish, a gentleman adventurer from Trimley, Suffolk, set out to raid the
Spanish empire in the Americas for profit with a privately-financed fleet of
three ships. A number of other Suffolk men were on board, among them Francis
Petty of Eye, who chronicled the voyage, the Ipswich merchant Thomas Eldred, and
Thomas Fuller also of Ipswich. Eldred was famous enough to have a pub named
after him in Ipswich.
Navigation was a
dangerous business in those days. In early 1587, the fleet spent seven weeks
passing through the Straits of Magellan at the foot of South America. The
smallest of the ships, the Hugh Gallant, was so damaged that it nearly
sank. The other two, Desire and Content, had rounded the Cape
earlier and put ashore to look for water, only to be attacked by Indians, who
mistook the English sailors for Spaniards. Schoolboys of my generation learned
of famous sailors such as Cavendish, Drake and Hawkins as English heroes. To
the Spanish, they were, of course, murderous pirates. Cavendish was certainly
piratical as he made his way up the coast of South America, engaging in
occasional combat with Spanish forces and burning settlements. By the time the
ships reached the coast of Ecuador, the complement of men was so reduced that
Cavendish decided to sink the Hugh Gallant and distribute its crew among
the remaining two ships.
Off the coast of
Mexico Cavendish seized a large Spanish ship. A captured Frenchman had enticing
news: the merchants of Mexico were expecting a galleon from Manila with a rich
cargo. Cavendish sailed north to the coast of Baja California until he sighted
the Santa Ana. The Spanish galleon was much larger than the English ships, but
it was heavily laden and had no cannon. Its only defences were Spanish soldiers
armed with pikes and arquebuses. The smaller but more manoeuvrable Desire
and Content’s cannon bombarded the Santa Ana until the crew were forced
to surrender. Cavendish loaded gold and precious textiles on to his ships, set
the Spanish crew ashore and set light to the Santa Ana. Then he continued his
voyage across the Pacific, around the Cape of Good Hope, and returned home with
a handsome profit and the fame of circumnavigating the globe.
The journey from
Acapulco to Manila was a perilous and unpleasant undertaking, especially the
return from the Philippines, which could take from three to six months. Space
on board was limited, so much so that in 1620 the King issued an order limiting
passengers to one slave per person to conserve supplies. Rats, cockroaches and
other bugs were endemic, food rotted and became worm-ridden, water could become
foul or simply run out. Scurvy, bubonic plague, typhoid and dysentery were
common. The risk of death was such that all passengers were obliged to confess
and take communion at Manila before leaving for Acapulco. A royal decree
ordered that there should be two pilots on each galleon, since pilots
frequently died en route.
A Japanese fall front cabinet, 16th or 17th century |
In June 1624 a Catalan
scribe by the name of Gaspar Pagés de Moncada boarded a galleon in Manila.
Gaspar took some precautions against the privations of the voyage. He took on
board a barrel of chocolate, known to keep when other foods had rotted, and
four amphorae of wine, so that he did not have to depend on the ship’s limited
water supply. He also took with him a range of exotic Asian silk and cotton
fabrics, items made of marble, a Japanese writing desk, two Chinese porcelain
plates (broken) and a salt cellar. The fabrics included two pairs of Chinese
silk stockings (one silver coloured, the other white). Gaspar planned to sell his modest treasure of
Asian goods in Mexico to make a quick profit. He hoped to return to the two
houses and the vineyards he had left behind in Cataluña, but he would never see
them again. He fell ill on the journey and was set ashore in January 1625. His
final resting place was historic, since he was buried in February in the church
of the town of Colima, now the cathedral, built 1525-1540, less than 20 years
after the Conquest of Mexico.
Just as Gaspar would
never again see his native Cataluña, Thomas Cavendish would eventually die far
from the estuaries and marshes of Suffolk. The Content disappeared from
view soon after the looting the Santa Ana, and Cavendish set out alone
in the Desire across the Pacific to complete his circumnavigation of the
globe. He sank his profits from the Santa Ana in a fleet of five new
ships and in 1591 set out once again to raid the Pacific coast of the Americas.
This expedition was an utter disaster and Cavendish died in May or June 1592,
probably near Ascension Island in the south Atlantic.
These connections
between far-flung places, are a reminder to those of us who now travel with
ease from Europe to the Americas and to Asia, that our global world has its
roots in events some five centuries ago. Gaspar and Thomas were, no doubt,
driven by dreams of riches, but they also had a capacity to tolerate privations
and death in ways that we would hardly imagine if historical documents did not
reveal them to us.
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