Thursday 29 December 2022

How to buy a house in Mexico

 

For the last three or four years our son Chris has rented a house in San Vicente, Nayarit, in the Bahía de Banderas region of the Pacific coast of Mexico. Every month he called on his landlady to pay his rent in cash (cash is still alive and thriving in Mexico). A few months ago, his landlady, a member of a local landowning family, rather unusually invited him to sit down for a chat. She explained that she was thinking of selling the house to buy some cattle. Chris, who was about to obtain his permanent resident’s card after four years of residence, decided to buy.

 

This news set me thinking about one of the things I learned during my studies of Mexican history. Between the achievement of independence in 1821 and 1867 Mexico was invaded four times by foreign powers, and for nine of those years was under foreign occupation. The most consequential of these invasions was the American occupation of 1846-1848. President James Knox Polk, roughly the equivalent in Mexican history of Vladimir Putin in Ukraine, obliged Mexico to sign the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, which ceded about half the national territory to the invading power. US forces returned in 1914, this time to occupy only the port of Veracruz, rather than the entire country.

Statues on the terrace of Chapultepec palace commemorate the sacrifice of military cadets who died rather than surrender to the invading forces of General Zachary Taylor

 

 

The tragic end of the final, French, invasion and occupation of 1861-1867 was captured on canvas in a famous painting by Manet. Monarchist centralists had been struggling with liberal federalists since Independence and the brief rule of Emperor Agustín I of Mexico in 1821 to determine how the new nation should be governed. The royalists who had scoured Europe for an unemployed monarch, had persuaded an Austrian Archduke to become Emperor Maximiliano I. Napoleon III saw an opportunity to clip the wings of an expansionist United States by placing his own man as Mexican head of state. In 1864 Maximiliano and his wife Carlota took up residence in the palace on Chapultepec Hill (where six cadet soldiers had died rather than surrender to the invading forces of General Zachary Taylor in 1847). But the Liberal President Benito Juárez, like the boy soldiers, had refused to surrender and led a stubborn resistance to the combined monarchist and French army. By 1867 Napoleon III had had enough and abandoned Maximiliano and Carlota to their fates: the Emperor was executed on the Cerro de las Campanas at Querétaro and Carlota died in exile, driven mad by her husband’s death.

Edouard Manet's painting of the execution of Maximiliano I

 

 

The Americans’ 1914 occupation reminded the delegates of the contending revolutionary groups who assembled in Aguascalientes three years later to draft a new constitution that Mexico remained vulnerable to a foreign power which had a real, or concocted, grievance. They wrote into the 1917 constitution a clause that prohibited foreigners from owning property within a restricted zone 100km. from the borders and 50km. from the coast. The goal was to reduce the risk of foreign powers attacking Mexico to remedy a perceived or real wrong suffered by a foreign national.

 

Now, San Vicente is about 8-10km. from the Pacific coast, so Chris’ home is firmly located in a restricted zone. And the windows of local real estate agents advertise a large variety of properties for sale to expatriates (mostly Americans and Canadians). So, the question is how can so many foreigners openly flout the constitution? It used to be that a foreigner would discretely  arrange for a straw man to own the property on behalf of the foreigner, which worked as long as the straw man was honest. However, no such arrangements are now necessary. Instead, the property is not legally-speaking owned by the foreigner, but rather by a trust managed by a bank. The foreigner (or in the case of death, the heirs of the foreigner) is the beneficiary of the trust, not technical the owner of the property.

 

The process begins with a “contrato de promesa de compraventa de inmueble sujeto a condición suspensiva”. In the Bahía de Banderas area, real estate contracts are provided with a parallel English “translation”, which not very helpfully, informs the English speaker that he is about to sign a “real estate promise to purchase private agreement subject to condition precedent”. The agent’s legal person explained that “condition precedent” refers to the conditions that must be met for the contract to proceed.

 

Another puzzling passage of the agreement informs the buyer that he promises to buy the property “bajo la modalidad ad corpus”, rendered in the “translation” as “under the ad-corpus modality”. This, the agent’s lawyer explained, is the modality according to which the price is agreed in accordance with the individual value of the property as a whole, without any reference to any unit of measurement (i.e. the price is not determined on a square meter basis, but is negotiated and agreed on a per property basis).

 

Once Chris and I had understood this initial contract, a variety of (to us) rather obscure processes were set in motion. The sale had to be referred to the Mexican Ministry of Foreign Relations (fee 4,500 pesos/£20). This in turn led to a much larger charge of 23,000 pesos (c.£1,000) for a permit from the ministry. The other expensive charge was 24,000 pesos for something called “transmisiones patrimoniales” (“patrimonial transfer” or “property transfer”), which I think referred to some other process required by the government for a transaction involving a foreigner. The bank trust cost another £1,0000 or so and the property registry about £600. These charges plus the notary’s fees and expenses came to a total of 119,376 pesos (about £5,400), a hefty charge for a very modest terraced home.

 

Chris is now the beneficiary of a trust which owns a compact home at 38 Calle Playa de Golondrina, in the Fraccionamiento (housing development or estate) Palma Real. And as far as the constitution is concerned the prohibition of foreigners owning property near the coast has been upheld.  

Calle Playa de Golodrina, Chris' number 38 is the second house from the right

 

Sunday 30 October 2022

Of lettuces, lecterns and loot

 

During the final week or so of her ill-fated appointment as our Prime Minister, Liz Truss was rather unkindly compared to a lettuce. The question was whether the lettuce, which has a short shelf life, would wilt before she resigned. Liz lost; lettuce won. She was Prime Minister for 45 days, the shortest tenure ever.

 

The Truss lectern

On the day of her resignation, her lectern was set up outside 10 Downing Street, for her final speech before she left to meet the King to offer her resignation. Her successor, Rishi Sunak, was chosen so swiftly that a lectern had to be found in some obscure store room. For, it turned out, each Prime Minister is entitled to a lectern designed to her/his specification. “Dishy” Rishi had become Prime Minister so quickly that he had not yet found time to turn his attention to the important matter of his lectern design.

 

The Theresa May lectern


We Brits like to pretend that we are a country of long-established and honoured tradition. Usually, however, “ancient” traditions turn out to be quite recent inventions to meet a pressing political/public relations need, or simply to satisfy someone’s vanity. I had read that he Prime Ministerial lectern tradition was invented in 2010 by David Cameron, a vain man who valued appearances above all else. Since three of his four (yes, four Prime Ministers since 2016) successors similarly felt that a personalized lectern was essential to the proper functioning of the state, a sizeable lectern market has been created. However, a brief search revealed that Tony Blair and Gordon Brown both had their own lecterns, although the Brown lectern looks as if it came from Ikea or Office Depot.

The Blair lectern

 

The Brown lectern

The Cameron lectern

 

The Johnson lectern

Ms Truss’ brief period in office entitles her to a number of other benefits. For example, she will receive £115,000 per year in perpetuity Since she is 47 years old, this might well add up to a handy £4 .6 million or so. She also receives a chauffeur driven car and a permanent security detail. No doubt the latter is required for her future safety, but I recall organizing publishing events for retired Prime Minister Harold Macmillan in the 1980s. When one venue asked how many security guards would come with Mr Macmillan, his office told me he would have none. So, had anyone attempted to assassinate him, his only protection would have been a youthful Ian Jacobs. Times have changed.

 

Finally, every Prime Minister is entitled to appoint those they wish to reward with a resignation honour, including a perpetual seat in the House of Lords. One wonders if Ms Truss’ closest ally, Kwasi Kwarteng, the author of the disastrous financial plan that brought her down, might be elevated to a fancy title to compensate for his frustrated political ambitions.

 

The lettuce will probably wait in vain for an honour. I welcome suggestion fo what might be a suitable reward for the vegetable.

Sunday 23 October 2022

Mexico Past and Present: 1972 and 2022

 

Shortly before we left for our visit to friends in Mexico City and to our son in Bahía de Banderas on the Pacific coast, I read the obituary of Luis Echeverría Álvarez who was President of Mexico when I first arrived in the country in the summer of 1972. The governments of Mexico had agreed an exchange programme: Mexican students would go to the UK to bring back technical skills and British students would be awarded a stay in Mexico funded by the Consejo Nacional de Ciencia y Tecnología (National Council of Science and Technology). The three who arrived together on a BOAC flight were historians: my companions were Alan Knight, who would become Professor of Latin American History at Oxford and Guy Thompson who had a long career at the University of Warwick. Reading of Echeverría’s death, I realized that my connections with Mexico are now half a century old. It seemed a good time to reflect on those five decades.

 

Those three months in 1972 were incredibly exciting. I read about Mexican history in the library of the Colegio de México (the elite graduate social sciences school of Mexico) and travelled at the expense of the Mexican taxpayer to visit places that I read about in histories of the Mexican Revolution of 1910-1921: to Cuautla, where the forces of the peasant leader Emiliano Zapata once gathered his troops; to San Luis Potosí, the northern city that gave its name to the manifesto of the first revolutionary leader, a wealthy, rather mystical northern landowner, Francisco Ignacio Madero, who actually launched his rebellion from the USA, not from San Luis; to Veracruz, the Gulf coast port, so often invaded by foreign powers in pursuit of territorial and political profit; from there Alan Knight and I took a long bus journey to the port of Tampico in the far north, travelling through tropical land where the British Pearson company once had its oil fields. I discovered how hospitable the Mexican people are and made friendships that have lasted for half a century. I returned in 1974-1975 to carry out research for my doctorate.

I was fascinated by the great metropolis which was Mexico City, once Tenochtitlan, the city in a lake that was the capital of the Aztecs. The centre of Tenochtitlan was a great plaza, framed by the palace of the Aztec ruler, the huey tlatoani (“the man who speaks”) and temples, the greatest of which was the Templo Mayor (the Great Temple of the Aztecs). When I was there in 1972 it lay hidden under the colonial structures of the Ciudad de México, the capital of New Spain as Mexico was known for three centuries of Spanish rule, but was discovered in 1978 by workmen and is now a visitor attraction and a museum. During Spanish colonial rule the square was the Plaza de Armas, where Spaniards mustered if needed to defend the King’s realm or to calm period fears of a Black slave rebellion. On the site of the palace of Moctezuma the Spaniards erected what Mexicans now call the Palacio Nacional, where the President has his offices (and the current incumbent his official residence). The historic centre soon filled up with palaces and a considerable number of churches, monasteries and convents, all funded by the rich and powerful who made their money in trade with Asia and Peru, in silver mining, livestock, or corruption, the Mexican vice introduced by the Spaniards. In 1972 many of the religious buildings, expropriated by anticlerical governments of the 19th and 20th centuries, were public institutions: the National Library, the National Newspaper Library, museums and so on. In modern Mexico, the great square is known as the Zócalo, which translates as “plinth”, an odd name to give to the political centre of the country. The reason is that in 1843 Antonio López de Santa Anna, who frequently but usually briefly occupied the presidency in the first decades of independent Mexico, had work begun on a grandiose monument to independence in the square. The project had got as far building a large plinth when the Americans invaded in 1846, after which Santa Anna’s monument was forgotten, except in the popular name of the plaza. The plinth, by the way, was discovered by archaeologists, who usually unearth Aztec remains, in 2017.

 

Everywhere I travelled in the now enormous metropolis, Mexico’s turbulent and often sad history was evident. The Metro, recently constructed for the Olympic Games of 1968, unearthed Aztec remains which were on view in some stations. In Coyoacán, once a rural town, I saw the mansions of some of the most important conquistadors, such as Diego de Ordaz and Hernán Cortés himself, the leader of the Spanish invaders. On the hill of Chapultepec stands the castle (really a large palace), the residence of Emperor Maxmilian, the Austrian prince installed by Napoleon III as the second emperor of Mexico from 1864 -1867 (the first, a Mexican royalist, Agustín de Iturbide, wore the crown from 1822-1823). The palace was later the favourite residence of dictator Porfirio Díaz (1877-1911). At the foot of the hill stands the monument to the Niños Héroes, cadet soldiers who refused to surrender to the invading Americans (1846-1848), preferring to jump to their deaths. Their sacrifice is commemorated every September just before the fiestas patrias that mark Independence. The latter begin at midnight on 15 September when the President emerges on the balcony of the Palacio Nacional to give the Grito (the “Yell” or call to arms against the Spaniards) first made by the priest father Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla in 1810 on the steps of his church in Dolores Hidalgo. Nobody knows exactly what he said, but the traditional grito of Viva México! is brief and to the point.

The city expanded beyond the colonial-era centre in neighbourhoods known as colonias. Colonia Cuauhtémoc, a short distance from the centre was a late 19th-century development to the north of one of the city’s great avenues, the Paseo de la Reforma. Here the well-to-do of the Porfiriato, the dictatorship of Porfirio Díaz, built solid mansions that have survived earthquakes and political upheavals. The British embassy is in one of them (actually, it suffered considerable quake damage a few years ago, but still stands). Roma, and Condesa where I lived, were developments of the first decades of the 20th century. The expansion of the city picked up pace after World War II, eventually engulfing formerly independent villages such as colonial Coyoacán, and, as tram lines developed, further still to the south as far as San Ángel, an area of charming cobbled streets and expensive homes combined with still more plazas, olonial churches and monasteries. The city now sprawls over the valley, engulfing parts of the adjoining state of Mexico.

 

In the summer of 1972, I found myself in a Mexico that lived under the managed democracy of the Partido Revolucionario Institucional (PRI) that emerged from the years of revolution. This was the Mexico that had committed itself to universal education, a goal still imperfectly achieved, but a noble goal nevertheless. The national university (Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, UNAM) turned out highly qualified economists, engineers, lawyers, doctors, archaeologists and so on who staffed the government and provided professional services on a par, for the wealthy and the middle classes of the cities and major towns, with more prosperous countries. Rural provision was much inferior, although graduates were obliged to give a year of social service in the provinces, and schools and clinics appeared in small towns, but not in many remote villages and hamlets. I lodged with such a middle-class family (still dear friends) in Condesa (the land had once belonged to a countess). Nearby the Jockey Club had established a horse racing track in the 1920s, whose layout can still be seen in the oval shape of Calle Amsterdam. My first landlady, Consuelo, was the widow of a businessman engaged in shipping. Her eldest daughter married an UNAM-trained economist who worked for the Ministry of Public Works, the son of one of her father’s business friends. After Consuelo’s death her daughter’s family moved into the house and I lodged with them. The government kept such families happy by paying a salary top-up “off the payroll” (“fuera de la nómina”), providing a subsidized ministry shop and enabling them to live comfortably. 

 

There were similar subsidized shops for some of the more humble classes run by the Consejo Nacional de Subsistencias Populares (CONASUPO). CONASUPO’s shops were closed in 1999 to be replaced with a much smaller number that cater only to communities that live in what the government considers extreme poverty. The poor’s share of economic prosperity is still much less than the lifestyle of the middle class: inequality has increased markedly in my own country, but in Mexico the gap between rich and poor is staggering. The man who belched fire from his mouth to earn a few pesos in 1972, the children singing romantic ballads or selling chewing gum on the buses and metro, or cleaning windscreens at red traffic lights, were not beneficiaries of the PRI’s “Mexican miracle”. These poor people worked hard and with great ingenuity to scrape together enough to eat one day at a time. I remember one day seeing a young man pedalling a bicycle along the Alameda in central Mexico City. Behind him was a pile of newspapers and seated on the pile was his partner. As they approached a newspaper kiosk, the boy on the newspaper pile pulled a bundle from under him and flung it to the newspaper seller. To my amazement the pair barely wobbled, let alone lost their balance. Slightly better off perhaps were the members of the “informal economy” who sold fruit-flavoured water (known as aguas frescas), tacos, tortas (a sort of Mexican sandwich) and other foods on the street. The contrast with the lives of the middle-class residents of Condesa, the rather more upscale homes of the Pedregal de San Ángel, newly-built on an ancient lava field, or the rich and powerful of Lomas de Chapultepec emphasized the enormous inequalities of 1970s Mexico, which are still painfully visible today.

 

Much as these urban dwellers lived precariously, in rural areas life was more basic still. The homes of all but the well-to-do (if there were any) were frequently one-or-two-room affairs of adobe. Larger settlements would usually have a basic school building, although smaller places even in the 21st century sometimes still have schools made of “palos” – literally “sticks”. Larger villages might also have a one-room clinic run by the Instituto Mexicano de Seguro Social (IMSS). The more fortunate might have a parcel of land provided by the agrarian reforms of the post-revolutionary era, but by the 1970s population growth was fragmenting the holdings, creating a landless rural population and driving migration to the United States. 

 

The post-war economic growth managed by the PRI regime had provided families such as the one I lived with an income sufficient to employ two young maids, to live in a comfortably appointed modern home and to run a car. True, imported goods were heavily taxed and beyond their reach. While a similar British family might serve wine at a social gathering, the parties I attended were lubricated with plentiful rum and tequila. Wine and other foreign luxuries were for the wealthy, as were restaurants such as Churchills, a veritable institution which braved every national misfortune except for the recent pandemic during which it closed its doors for good. But by 1972 the shine was beginning to wear off the political and economic “miracle” of the Mexican revolution. There was discontent in rural areas fuelled by poverty and the rule of corrupt and brutal political bosses. There were rural guerrillas in the mountains of the state of Guerrero where I studied the 1910 Revolution. In Mexico City there had been enormous peaceful student demonstrations (later joined by workers) in 1968 just before the Olympic Games to protest against restrictions on liberty, official corruption, and the still widespread poverty. My landlord Alfonso and another friend were present in Plaza of the Three Cultures and the housing complex of Tlatelolco, famous for its provision of decent working-class homes, on 2 October 1968, when the regime lost patience. Soldiers shot many students dead, arrested others, and the fortunate fled to hiding places in the countryside.

 

Luis Echeverría, who as Secretario de Gobernación (Interior Minister) had ordered the massacre, was chosen by the PRI to be elected President in 1970 (the PRI always won national elections until 2000: the competition was to be chosen as candidate, not elected). Echeverría struck a leftist pose, getting politically close (but not so close as to irritate the USA too much) to Cuba, and associated Mexico with the movement of non-aligned nations. He promised an “apertura democrática” (democratic opening) but sent soldiers to the mountains of Guerrero to conduct a dirty war against dissidents, despatched government-paid thugs called halcones (falcons) to commit the Corpus Christi massacre on 10 June 1971, and shut down a critical newspaper, Excélsior. Journalists and other writers were kept onside with cash subsidies or appointments as ambassadors to desirable countries. The government controlled paper imports, and consequently could silence excessive dissent in the press. Echeverría splashed cash with abandon on projects that took his fancy, such as a fruit canning factory in the village in coastal Nayarit where he had a vacation home. His six-year period in office ended with a currency crisis. This rather verbose man, one of whose much-derided phrases was “No es ni el uno ni el otro, sino todo el contrario” (“it’s neither one thing nor the other, but quite the opposite”), failed to secure the PRI’s dominance of Mexican politics in the long run.

 

In the next two and a half decades the PRI would struggle to hold power with the firm grasp to which it was accustomed. In 1988 the party had to resort to post-election rigging of the count to prevent the Partido de la Revolución Democrática (Party of the Democratic Revolution) of Cuauhtémoc Cárdenas (son of one of the regime’s most famous presidents) from reaching power. Finally, the PRI’s candidate for 2000, Luis Donaldo Colosio, was assassinated four months before the election. As luck would have it, constitutional provisions prohibited anybody who held a government post less than six months before the election from being a candidate, which eliminated all the most powerful alternative candidates. The only possible candidate available, Ernesto Zedillo, did one remarkable, unheard-of, thing: at the end of his term, he permitted a free election that the PRI lost.

Many PRI politicians switched to other parties or formed new ones. One such was Andrés Manual López Obrador (known as AMLO: contemporary Mexico has a habit of turning public figures into acronyms), from the southern state of Tabasco, a region known to British readers from Graham Greene’s evocative novel of the anticlerical 1930s, The Power and the Glory. AMLO, also known less flatteringly as “el pejelagarto” (a Tabasco reptile with an extra-large mouth), for his verbosity, joined the PRD and was elected head of the Federal District, as Mexico City was formally known, in 2000. He ran for the Presidency in 2006 and vigorously disputed the result when his opponent Felipe Calderón of the Partido Acción Nacional (National Action Party) was declared winner. He similarly disputed the elections of 2012, when he was beaten in the polls by the PRI’s man Enrique Peña Nieto (EPN: as I said, anybody who is anybody is now an acronym), but then won big with an unprecedented landslide in 2018 as the head of his own party, MORENA ( and other acronym for Movimiento de Regeneración Nacional: National Regeneration Movement).

 

So, the Mexico I now visit to see my son is the country of AMLO. This is not the Mexico of 1972. The infrastructure is much more modern. Multi-lane toll highways now take freight, passengers and private cars to all the main cities and a good many lesser towns. All the major cities and tourist areas now have airports. 1972 Mexico City already had multi-storey buildings, but now it has many more skyscrapers. Wealthy Mexicans drive expensive cars, live in luxurious houses (probably several) and vacation around the world. The middle classes now eat in restaurants offering a variety of international cuisines, even in small provincial towns, and drink imported wines (and some good ones from the nascent Mexican wine industry). Almost everybody, it seems, has a mobile phone and communicates by WhatsApp to arrange everything from a drink in a bar to a business meeting. But the fire eaters, jugglers and trick unicyclists are still at traffic intersections, as are the children begging for a few pesos while a parent waits nearby (children receive more sympathy than an adult) and the children who clean windscreens at red lights. In Bucerías, where luxury condos line the beach, we saw a family of two adults and three small girls, the eldest no older than six, loaded with merchandise walking to the beach for a day selling to holidaymakers in the hot sun. We also saw a boy and a girl, no more than ten or eleven years old, with no adult present, trudging along the beach at Bucerías laden with textiles and bags for sale. These children and their parents still toil daily to barely meet their basic needs. The children’s education suffers and so poverty is reinforced.

 

I have not had the close-up view of contemporary Mexico that I had in 1972 and 1974-1976, but AMLO, who is regularly characterized in the British press (in so far as our press refers to him at all) as a leftist, strikes me as no such thing, but rather a politician made in the mould of old-style authoritarian PRI politicians. Not so much the suavely corrupt EPN, but the rough tough, often gun toting politicos of old. However, there is one difference. While an Echeverría might have kidded himself that the people adored him and his grandiose projects that came to very little, there was, in truth, no great enthusiasm for his government. Things are different under AMLO:  those who believe with fervour see a plan to transform Mexico into a much more prosperous country standing tall in the world; semi-believers credit him with some good policies but dislike his authoritarian manner; others (including, as far as I can tell, the better-off middle class) loathe him as an authoritarian disaster who is taking the country in the wrong direction. AMLO tends to talk in quasi- mystical terms (one is tempted to say pseudo-mystical). For example, during the pandemic he told Mexicans that they would be all right because of their country’s deep cultural resources and produced assorted amulets and charms that he carries to ward off disease and other maladies. Nevertheless, whatever one might think of AMLO, he has undoubtedly succeeded in selling a vision of a more promising, even glorious future for Mexico to win enough votes to control almost all levers of power. The overarching framework of the vision is the Fourth Transformation (acronymed, of course, as the 4T).  In AMLO’s view (it can hardly be called an analysis, since it would fall apart if tested against what actually happened in the past), Mexico has undergone four transformations which constitute triumphant moments in Mexican history: Independence from Spain in 1821; the Liberal Reforma of the 1860s (led by one of AMLO’s great heroes, President Benito Juárez); the Revolution of 1910-1921 (started by another hero, Madero); and AMLO’s own promised transformation.

 

A theme in all four transformations, in AMLO’s account of history, is independence. He expresses Mexico’s independence in a number of ways. Like Echeverría, he makes a point of offering support to Cuba, to which AMLO adds Nicaragua and Venezuela. Unlike Echeverría, however, AMLO seems uninterested in overseas travel and the international stage. Apart from one visit to the White House, he tends to despatch Marcelo Ebrard, his foreign minister, to international engagements. However, the policy that most notably stems from ALMO’s pursuit of independence relates to petroleum. Petroleum has been drilled in Mexico from at least the early 20th century, and in 1938 President Lázaro Cárdenas nationalized the industry in the teeth of opposition from the USA and the UK. But it was in the 1970s that large reserves were found off the Gulf Coast. PRI politicians believed that they ruled a country that would become a member of the club of rich oil nations, but things did not quite turn out that way. For example, Mexico exports crude oil to the USA but then imports gasoline because it lacks sufficient refining capacity. One of AMLO’s first acts was to commission a new refinery, Dos Bocas, in his home state of Tabasco. On the meagre evidence of my conversations, this element of AMLO’s policy is popular with Mexicans who are not otherwise devotees of the President. It taps into deep feelings of independence from foreign powers who have so often bullied Mexico in the past. 

 

To an outsider, this large bet on a technology whose medium-to-long-term future looks uncertain, to say the least, if other countries seriously pursue decarbonization, does not entirely make sense. But to many Mexicans, for whom oil is the very symbol of independence for a country much pushed around in its 200 years as an independent nation, energy independence is a very alluring prospect. The trucks of PEMEX, the state-owned oil company, carry the slogan “por el rescate de la soberanía” (rescuing sovereignty).

Moreover, a future based on oil seems to be pretty much the entire energy policy of AMLO’s government. I asked a friend in Mexico City why I saw no electric cars here: simple, he replied, no charging points. He added that the new Tren Maya (see below) will run on diesel engines, not electric, and that construction has destroyed large swathes of virgin forest. One loyalist whom I asked about the apparent lack of interest in renewable energy assured me that I was mistaken and mentioned five areas that are the focus of renewables, such a geothermal. I was not convinced of his argument: after all, AMLO has prevented renewable energy companies from entering the electricity market in order to protect the Comisión Federal de la Electricidad (Federal Electricity Commission) from competition. In essence, a regime for which petroleum is the very expression of Mexican independence does not really seem to think the country needs anything else.

 

In some respects, AMLO’s attitude to the private sector bears comparison with that of Echeverría, who had particularly frosty relations with big business, most notably with the wealthy industrialists of Monterrey in northern Mexico. While some of Echeverría’s hostility was as much rhetorical as practical, AMLO is instinctively distrustful of the business sector. Soon after he came into office, he cancelled the construction of a new, half-finished, international airport, and incurred a compensation bill of some US$93 billion, perhaps more. The former airport is now to become an ecological park, and a new airport, converted from a Mexican air force base by the army, has been opened to supplement the current airport in Mexico City.

 

This brings us to the role of the army in AMLO’s Mexico. An important element of AMLO’s appeal in 2018 was his promise to tackle the violence of organized crime. His policy was “abrazos no balazos”: embrace the criminals rather than shoot them. His argument was that, if poor young Mexicans were given alternatives to organized crime, they would prefer a life of honest labour. He also disbanded the Federal Police and merged them with elements of the military to form the National Guard, which patrols the streets and is supposed to tackle organized crime. More recently, he has brought all police forces under the control of the Ministry of National Defence and ordered the army to secure the streets of the nation. He recently divided the three main opposition parties by proposing a law that authorized the army to provide internal security for the next six years. AMLO’s opponents argue that this is unconstitutional, but the President shows no interest in constitutional or other provisions that might constrain him.

 

The results of the militarization of policing and the direct involvement of an army not trained to police a civilian population are not encouraging. Violent crime has not decreased. Rather, according to published statistics it has increased. A friend from a small town a short drive out of Mexico City told me that, while there is no violent crime where he lives, it is common knowledge that local businesses pay extorsion levies to criminals, many of whom are known to live from such rackets. When we visited the dog hotel in the Pitillal district of Puerto Vallarta where Chris had lodged his dog Winston while we were in Bucerías (the apartment owner does not permit pets), I spotted a sign on a beer shop across the street. It read: “Vigilant neighbours united against crime. If we capture a thief, we will beat the s**t out of him.” The British Foreign Office writes the following concerning the state of Guerrero where I travelled as a young student (my emphasis):

The interior of the state is dangerous. State security forces have scant presence. Control is often in the hands of organised crime groups and local ‘self-defence’ organisations. Foreigners’ presence in rural Guerrero is likely to be regarded with high levels of suspicion by omnipresent organised crime and local self-defence groups, and the possibility of misunderstanding and ensuing violence is high.

An archaeologist friend who has worked in Guerrero for decades, told me that he only dares go there now with a local friend (even to the state capital), since any outsider is viewed with suspicion and is therefore vulnerable. Guerrero is an extreme case, but it is not unique. The British government’s verdict on Michoacán is similar: “some areas are totally lacking state control and do not have a security presence.” A friend in Michoacán tells me that the west of the state and adjoining areas of Jalisco are now known as “the corridor of death”.

 

No president could solve the problems of Guerrero, or of other parts of the country plagued with crime, in a six-year term. Moreover, Mexico’s government is not solely responsible for the increase in organized crime. The consumption of drugs in the USA has funded the growth of crime south of the border, and lax American gun laws have facilitated the illegal export to Mexico of powerful weapons that are illegal under Mexican law. The American love affair with automatic weapons is responsible for the deaths of many innocent Americans, but equally for the murder of America’s neighbours. However, there is little evidence to suggest that AMLO’s handing of a security role to the army, combined with “abrazos no balazos”, is improving matters.

 

AMLO has been remarkably indifferent to one of the most appalling aspects of violent crime: violence against women, and in particular the murder of women. Mexico has even coined the Spanish-language term now widely used for this form of gender violence (feminicidio). Violence against women is widespread, rarely investigated by the police, and in most cases a crime that men can commit with impunity. Moreover, this particular violent crime cannot be attributed to the existence of powerfully armed organized crime groups. This is predominantly a crime committed by individual men for individual motives. AMLO has dismissed demonstrations against feminicidio as politically motivated by his “neoliberal” enemies. Since the government tends to pay attention to issues only if AMLO decrees them worthy of government action, gender violence is more or less ignored. Such violence existed before AMLO took office, and occurred in the Mexico I knew 50 years ago, but the scale of the crime has increased, facilitated by official inaction.

 

Moreover, the role of the army has been expanded beyond policing. The military is being turned into a business enterprise that will manage projects close to the President’s heart. The army has built the new airport (Aeropuerto Internacional Felipe Ángeles), which a friend reports to be very well built and organized but with very few people (because few airlines want to fly passengers to an airport a long way north of Mexico City with poor transport links to the capital). The army is also building the Tren Maya, a railway that will start at Palenque, one of the great ancient Mayan cities, passing through the president’s home state, Tabasco, and then running through cities and archaeological sites in Campeche, Yucatán and Quintana Roo. Another train line is planned to cross the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, linking the ports of Salina Cruz on the Pacific Coast and Coatzacoalcos on the Gulf. AMLO’s stated goal here is to replace the Panama Canal as the preferred transhipment route between China and Europe.

 

This reliance on the army is a huge departure from the norm. There was a time when historians argued that post-revolutionary Mexico had found a novel formula to keep the military out of politics, unlike many other Latin American countries that suffered brutal military dictatorships. In fact, the army was more important for political control of the country than historians thought: the 1968 suppression of protests and in the 1970s the dirty war in Guerrero and elsewhere proved that. But formally to hand the army responsibility for civil law and order and for large business enterprises is another matter. What will happen if the generals rather like their lucrative roles and dislike giving them up?

 

A recent article in El Universal (11 September 2022) is not encouraging. Since the formation of the National Guard in March 2019 There have been 8,656 complaints of extorsion, abuse of authority, assaults and other matters. The army itself examines all complaints against it. The journalists were able to examine the records of 1,303 complaints. All were dismissed by army investigators for lack of sufficient proof. This amounts to impunity on a large scale: other incidents did not result in complaints since to complain is a waste of time. However, AMLO seems to be convinced of the absolute honesty of the military. On 14 February 2022 he said to National Guard officers in Michoacán: “The most important thing is honesty, integrity, not to be tempted by corruption, that members of the National Guard can say “I am loyal to Mexico and am incorruptible and I would rather leave my children in poverty than in dishonour.” The history of Mexico’s military makes it most unlikely that it consists entirely of such paragons of virtue.

 

One wonders, moreover, whether army commanders might quite like their access to large contracts, and whether it might be unwise or even dangerous to curtail the army’s activities in future, especially if commanders find them pleasantly lucrative. This thought is especially troubling in the light of AMLO’s undermining of the institutions that, since 2000, have helped to ensure a degree of democracy that might not be perfect, but which is at least an improvement on the PRI’s controlled political system. AMLO has certainly attempted to influence the judiciary and to limit the ability of the Instituto Nacional Electoral (INE: the National Electoral Commission). A friend we met for lunch in Mexico City arrived at our table excited because she had passed a table at which Lorenzo Córdova Vianello was eating and had greeted him. Our friend’s husband added that they consider Córdova a hero for standing up to AMLO, who they consider a fascist. 

 

AMLO’s hostility to journalists is well-known. I learned while I was in Mexico City that an international paper which publishes an edition in Mexico, and which had been critical of AMLO, was told that its advertising would suffer if it continued to question his policies. The owners complied. This brought to mind the case of Excélsior, the most independent paper in the 1970s. In this respect, AMLO is a return to an authoritarian past, not a harbinger of a bright new future, and his arm twisting is more direct than the more indirect methods of Echeverría.

 

Two of AMLO’s great themes, as already mentioned, are “abrazos y no balazos” and corruption. In AMLO’s world, opportunity for the young will incentivize them to take on honest work rather than involving themselves in organized crime. To his credit he has instituted some social programmes for the young to offer greater opportunity, although a determined lack of transparency prevents independent evaluation of the results. He also increased state pensions and required employers to enrol domestic servants in the social security system to give them access to healthcare. However, he has not increased the budget of the public health system correspondingly. AMLO insists that corruption will be defeated by his “republican austerity” and the unimpeachable honesty of his colleagues in MORENA. Corruption, he argues, was the sin of previous regimes, not of his. This is seductive rhetoric if one ignores facts and Mexican history. Only the credulous can really believe it. But as more than one friend has commented, nobody in his circle dares contradict AMLO. What he says must be done and must be right.

 

AMLO is not responsible for Mexico’s many problems and it would be unreasonable to expect any government to fundamentally transform a country as large and complex as Mexico in a single six-year term (Mexican presidents serve only one term), but one would hope to discern in AMLO’s policies firm directions that point towards sustained and verifiable improvements during the terms of subsequent presidents. While some positive steps have been taken, real progress remains in the realm of rhetoric rather than policy or accomplishment. To some extent, this reflects the rather depressing politics of our times: think of Donald Trump, Boris Johnson, Viktor Orbán, Vladimir Putin. Like them AMLO deploys rhetoric that inspires his followers, however much his detractors may despise him, like them he subverts norms and restraints on his powers. However, AMLO draws on decades old Mexican political practices and thinking that a PRI president would have recognized. However, while superficially a PRI president was, for six years, a king of all he surveyed, in practice the PRI coalition of interests (unions, peasant organizations, employers’ confederations) applied some brakes to a president’s power. AMLO, in contrast, won power with a sweeping majority and recognizes few if any constraints. He can do much good and can also do immense harm.

 

AMLO has undermined, but not yet destroyed, Mexico’s democratic processes that emerged from the defeat of the PRI. He has damaged constitutional and judicial checks on power. He has enormously expanded the role of the military in Mexican life, while doing little to address violent crime. Since he takes all the key decisions, it seems certain that he will anoint his chosen successor, and since the opposition is weak and divided his chosen one will probably become president in 2024. If AMLO is then the power behind the throne, presumably the next government will pursue similar policies. Despite the increased role of the military, I think it is most unlikely that the army would seek to seize power directly, but the generals will probably wield greater influence. If MORENA remains dominant and further undermines institutions intended to ensure a degree of democracy, Mexico may return to something resembling the managed democracy of the PRI, but perhaps more authoritarian and unipersonal. While previous militarized attempts to combat criminal cartels have failed, AMLO’s policy of non-intervention, or at least minimal intervention, does not seem to be a viable solution either. In the absence of a serious attempt to reduce organized crime and its accompanying violence it is likely that those parts of the national territory that are no longer controlled by the government will continue to be so, and control of additional regions may also be lost. And if I were able to come back in another 50 years, I expect that I would still find children begging at traffic lights and selling tourist souvenirs on the beaches. 

 

But one thing has not changed, the hospitable and courteous character of the great majority of Mexicans, a certain formality and insistence on polite forms of address, which Spaniards tell me they find too servile, but which I find charming (especially since being older I tend to be the one to whom formal politesse is directed). Working-class Mexicans are hardworking and resourceful people. If they are poorly paid and less productive in comparison with their northern neighbours it is worth remembering that many workers north of the border are also Mexican. The difference is that, with some exceptions, businesses in the US are more capitalized and automated than those in Mexico. Many customers of Mexico’s largest mobile phone company, Telmex, owned by Carlos Slim Helú, Mexico’s richest man and one of the wealthiest in the world, top up their phones and resolve customer service problems in retail outlines or in one of Telmex’s many offices. In other words, it is economic for Mr Slim to employ low paid Mexican staff rather than to invest in greater automation as his counterparts in North America and Europe have done. A meagre share of the changes of the last 50 years has percolated down to the lives of many Mexicans. By and large they continue to live in a society in which the rich and powerful bend the law and politics to their benefit. 

 

The ordinary Mexican is still obliged to fall back on hard work, family, and community resources. For a long time, one strategy has been to cross the border seeking work and a better life in the USA, but undocumented Mexicans live in constant fear of some minor misconduct bringing them to the attention of the authorities. Unwittingly exceeding the speed limit, carelessly jumping a red light, or annoying a co-worker who informs the authorities of your irregular immigration status can end in deportation and separation from your family. One person told us that she had lived in Sacramento for many years, having three children there, who were all therefore American citizens. She was deported, initially for a five-year term, later doubled by Mr Trump to ten, leaving her children with their father. She works and saves all year to pay half her children’s air fares for a longed-for annual visit (their father pays the other half). However, in 2021 two bouts of Covid severely reduced her income so the children have not visited her for more than a year. A man who drove us into Puerto Vallarta told us that he had crossed the border aged 15 initially to work in agriculture in California until a friend invited him to work in Tennessee in road and bridge construction. His children too were born American citizens and he too decided to leave them in America for a better life. His eldest son is now a welder in a car factory. The children speak their father’s tongue as their second language: the welder son learned to write it by copying the Bible in Spanish. A similar tale, aggravated by the pandemic, was that of a woman who worked in agriculture in northern California. When she returned to Mexico leaving her children in the USA, she trained to be a chef of Italian cuisine in a restaurant in Puerto Vallarta. The pandemic closed the restaurant and when it reopened her employers cut her salary: she decided that she would be better off driving tourists and fellow Mexicans around the towns of the Bahía de Banderas. Her children too live in the USA.

 

The Americans who voted for Mr Trump because he maliciously denounced Mexican immigrants as criminals and promised to keep them out of the USA (a promise as empty as AMLO’s “abrazos no balazos”) are happy to drive on roads and bridges built by Mexican labour or to eat potatoes graded and cleaned of stones by hand in northern California by a Mexican mother. However, at the same time they want those same people sent home and certainly kept well away from Americans who consume the fruits of Mexican hard work, Americans who are no more law abiding (perhaps sometimes less so) than the immigrants they despise.

Thursday 13 October 2022

Mayanalán Guerrero, 1975 – Zapotanito, Nayarit, 2022. Rural Mexico now and then

 

In my young postgrad days, I toured small towns in the state of Guerrero seeking local information about the events of the Mexican Revolution. One such was Mayanalán, reached by a local bus from Iguala, the economic hub of northern Guerrero. The driver deposited me near the medical clinic in the centre of town. There was also a primary school and a small vilIage general store (una tienda de abarrotes). Otherwise, the town consisted of small adobe or breeze block dwellings, generally of two or three rooms. Mayanalán was too small to support the usual billar (a combination billiard hall and beer room, host to many a drunken altercation) that was the social centre for men of larger towns. I had arrived hoping to meet the widow of a local revolutionary general but, unfortunately, she had gone to visit relatives in the neighbouring state of Morelos. Finding that nobody else could tell me anything about the Revolution, I asked if there was a local restaurant. There was not, but I was directed to the home of a lady who could make me a lunch of egg and chips while I waited for the bus back to Iguala. The people of towns like Mayanalán lived from agriculture. Many of them were ejidatarios, members of an ejido, a kind of agricultural quasi-cooperative formed by post-revolutionary governments by expropriating land from large landowners. Mayanalán, I discovered almost half a century later while researching a book about the much earlier history of Guerrero, had been a prehispanic town of sufficient importance that a few subordinate towns owed allegiance to its ruler. In 1535, fourteen years after the defeat of the Aztecs by their Indigenous enemies, assisted opportunistically by Spanish adventurers, the ruler of nearby Oapan sent envoys to request the hand in marriage of Ana Conxochitl, daughter of the ruler of Mayanalán, in marriage. The proposal accepted, the wedding party walked the 140kms or so to Chilapa where the wedding ceremony was conducted by one of the resident friars. Ana must have been a robust young woman.

 

The kiosko in the plaza of Zapotanito

The plaza in Zapotanito. Behind the buildings is the Cerro de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross), on top of which stands a small white cross

 

While we were in Mexico in October 2022, we were invited to lunch by the family of a friend of our son Chris in their home in Zapotanito, a small town with an ejido in the state of Nayarit. Zaponatito remined me of my visits to towns in Guerrero almost half a century earlier. A paved road off the main highway took us to Zapotanito, but as soon as we reached town the asphalt ran out to be replaced by cobbles or dirt streets. Just like Mayanalán, there was no restaurant or billar here, although there were three or four tiendas de abarrotes, a beer store, and a stationers. In the centre of the town is a small plaza with the obligatory kiosko (bandstand), which was adorned with bunting in the national colours for the national independence festivities held a few weeks earlier. Zapotanito also has a football pitch, a small bull ring, and an assembly hall for the ejido, where the annual general meeting had been held only a few days earlier on 2 October. There is a primary school in the centre and a secondary school on the edge of town. Students who study the last two years of school in a preparatoria, have to travel to Santa María del Oro. A small building a few yards from the plaza bore a faded sign Abasto del pueblo. This was the former slaughter house. On a steep hill above the town stands a small white cross, reached by more steps than we felt like trudging up on a rather hot day. Zapotanito, however, was not an ancient foundation like Mayanalán. Its church was built in 1921, which suggests that it was founded early in the 20th century, perhaps as a direct result of the revolutionary agrarian reform programme.

 

Zapotanito's football pitch

Agenda for the annual general meeting of the ejido

 

The patriarch of the family we visited, Don Dario, 86 years old, was waiting to greet us. Dario is an ejidatario. He grows sugar cane. Dario had a difficult start to his life: his father died when he was very goung and his mother made her living selling gordas (maize dough stuffed with a savoury filing). His home is a single storey structure, painted a cheery blue, built over the years to no predetermined plan as finances had permitted. In the corral to the rear is a cooking area with a wood-burning fire (there is also a gas stove and oven in the kitchen/dining room). An orchard area has a lime tree, a guayaba tree and a chayote (a sort of squash) vine. At the rear, one daughter has built a small home, while another who lives in the USA is building an ample two-storey home close by.

Cooking and serving the pozole

 

The pozole is served

 

Lunch started with pozole rojo, a long-cooked stew of pork meat and skin and maíz cacahuazintle (which yields large grains, at least double the size of the usual sweetcorn), flavoured with garlic, onion and guajillo chiles. One adds to taste raw onion, lettuce and lime juice. There followed elote (corn on the cob) roasted on the embers of the fire that cooked the pozole. This prompted an explanation by Roberto, Don Dario’s son-in-law, of the terminology of maize: elote, the tender cob of the corn; mazorca, the dried cob, whose grains, cooked with lime, are ground to make the masa (dough) for tortillas and other staples of the Mexican diet. Finally, we were offered a large quantity of empanadas of pineapple, guayaba and cajeta (caramelized milk). We were served first (as guests must always be) and ate with Don Dario, only later joined by two of his daughters and Roberto, while other members of the family ate at the kitchen table. Four generations were present, wandering in at various times from work or from school. All greeted us with a handshake or a kiss.

Lunch with Don Dario
 

Dario spent the lunch regaling us with tales of Zapotanito’s history and customs, occasionally supplemented by Roberto. The town had once been the seat of the municipality, and had had its own court and jail, but it lost its municipal preeminence to the larger population of Santa María de Oro. The annual fiesta is an animated affair. Some of the men of the town dress up as women with heavy makeup and tight-fitting shorts, and offer kisses to the other men while bands serenade the populace. The bull ring is the setting for the jaripeo, the riding of bucking bulls, the winner being the rider who stays on longest. The costs, which are considerable, are borne by the mayordomo of the fiesta. The people of Zapotanito seem to enjoy a good time: a dance (free of charge) was scheduled for the Sunday evening after our visit.

A street in Zapotanito

 

 

The other main event of Zapotanito’s year is the procession of the Virgen del Espíritu Santo (Virgin of the Holy Spirit). This dates back to the Cristero war of the 1930s, when the Catholic Church closed its doors and withdrew all sacraments in protest against the anticlerical measures of the federal government. In Nayarit, like much of western Mexico, the faithful rose up in anger at the loss of their masses, weddings, funerals and so on. The people of Zapotanito prudently hid their Virgin in a cave to protect her from the depredations of federal troops. However, a man from nearby Tequepexpan discovered her there and she was carried off to that town’s church. This, naturally enough, caused a conflict between Zapotanito and Tequepexpan, which was eventually settled by a priest who suggested that each town host the Virgin for six months of the year. So, on the appointed date, she is carried some 27kms. on foot (on one occasion during the pandemic in a truck) from one town to the other, accompanied by a crowd of local people and a band, and six months later she ceremonially makes the reverse journey as she has for nearly a century now. Fortunately, the Virgin is a diminutive figure in a wood and glass case, but nevertheless it is quite a feat to carry her a considerable distance over hilly country. The concordat between the two towns is recorded in a signed agreement in the municipal archives and is further recorded on the wall of Zapotanito’s church to the right of the altar. Don Dario told me the story of a man from Los Angeles, California, who lost the use of his left arm. He was advised to seek help from the Virgen del Espíritu Santo. Since there is no hotel in Zapotanito, Don Dario offered the man a room in his house and thus witnessed the miraculous recovery of the man’s use of his arm.

 

Zapotanito's church. The priest lives in Santa María del Oro and officiates only on Sundays

The church of Nuestro Señor de Chalma (Our Lord of Chalma - a pilgirmage destination in Malinalco, State of Mexico) in Mayanalán is an older and rather grander building.

 

The church of Mayanalán
 

Of course, 21st century Zapotanito is not the same as 1975 Mayanalán. Some 25% of Zapotanito the population is reported to have completed secondary education and 24% of households has a computer, laptop or tablet. If Don Dario’s family is an example, families are divided between their home town, the USA (many of the younger generation were born there and are citizens), or larger cities such as Tepic or the tourist resort of Puerto Vallarta. Migration to the USA was not at all a new phenomenon in 1975 when I visited Mayanalán, but I don’t remember discussing daughters and granddaughters who had become citizens and permanent residents in the Norte on such a scale. If Don Dario’s family is anything to go by, this is resulting in cultural changes. One of his daughters told me that she encourages her own daughters not to marry at age 14 or 15, which has been the norm, but to establish themselves in a career first. One of her daughters is doing just that in Oregon. Our discussion of the ejido’s crops, or the serving pozole on important occasions was a norm in small-town Mexico in the 1970s just as it is in 21st-century Zapotanito. Don Dario’s house is larger than the dwellings I recall in Mayanalán, but otherwise the domestic space recalls the homes I visited almost half a century ago. And one thing has definitely not changed: the hospitable welcome accorded to a visitor. As Don Dario told us “siempre serán bienvenidos y aquí tendrán su humilde casa” (you will always be welcome and. here you will have your humble home).

Don Dario, two of his daughters, his son-in-law, and the Jacobs family

 

Monday 3 October 2022

Two Good Causes

 

Before the pandemic, I shipped books generously donated by Thames & Hudson, Hachette and Book Aid international to Pasitos de Luz, the charity that provides free of charge therapy, education and nutrition for disabled children in the Bahía de Banderas area of Mexico. Our son Chris works at Pasitos managing communications, events and fundraising. On 29 September 2022, Jan and I visited Pasitos with Chris for the first time since 2019. This was a parents' day, so Pasitos was particularly busy with 40 or so parents in addition to the children.


The pandemic was a turbulent time for Pasitos. The children could not attend, but their needs were even greater at home where their parents lacked the expertise, equipment and time to give them the therapy they needed. The staff of Pasitos responded with guidance for parents and food parcels. In a recent newsletter the chair of the board of Casa Connor wrote:

“First and foremost, the children have now been attending consistently for over 7 months! After some tumultuous times with Covid impacting attendance, we are gradually working to return to pre-Covid numbers. There are several things that are impacting the rate of return. One is that we are looking to increase our numbers of volunteers. We are also beginning to return to pre-Covid staffing numbers. By the end of 2022, we hope to have the capacity to accept all of our previous children that are available to return, and plan to expand with more new children ... After six years since our opening, we are delighted that the entire building is substantially completed. We will now focus on maximizing the utilization of the building, as we still have a waiting list of over 110 children. This can only be achieved with the continuous and wonderful support from each and every one of you, for which we are incredibly grateful.”


Shortly before we left for Mexico, I went to Book Aid International (https://bookaid.org/) in Camberwell to collect some books to take with us. This charity supplies English- and French-language books to Africa, the Middle East, South Asia, the Caribbean and to refugees in some Mediterranean countries. Its warehouse is a treasure trove of learning waiting to find readers whose lives can be transformed by books. The CEO of Book Aid, Alison Tweed, whom I know from our days working at Macmillan, Giorgia Cerruti and Owen Llewellyn have arranged to set aside Spanish-language books that they do not need. I collect the books and deliver them to Pasitos.

 

To reach Pasitos, you drive inland from the coast to San Vicente, where Chris lives. There you turn right onto a four-lane road that ends abruptly among cucumber and watermelon fields: the governor of Nayarit who commissioned the road left office before it was finished. A right turn on a camino de terracería (a dirt road) takes you on a bone-jolting journey through large puddles of rainwater to Casa Connor, otherwise known as El Castillo. The day begins with the arrival of the Pasitos bus. Children are helped off the bus to the dining room for breakfast. The children then spend the morning engaging in various activities. Some go to the therapy pool, newly built at the rear of the building, others to classrooms where teachers give them an education designed for their needs and abilities, others to the nursery and/or therapy sessions of various kinds.

 

El Castillo.

On occasion, children might enjoy a relaxing session in the temascal, a sweatbath rather like a sauna that was common in prehispanic Mexico, or they can grow some plants in the organic garden. We were given a brief tour of the garden. There are fruit trees (papaya, bananas, star fruit), various vegetables and herbs, including chía, black basil, a plant with leaves that have an overwhelmingly sugary flavour and another (called pichipa) whose small leaves have a powerful aromatic and flavourful kick.

 

The current library is a small room with a modest collection in the nursery. Some of the books are not at all appropriate for the Pasitos children. For example, there is a shelf of English-language books. The only person able to read them is our son! Others are rather tired and much chewed and damaged. Nevertheless, Jan sat with some of the nursery children whose pleasure in turning the pages of a book was clear from their faces.

 

At the end of the day we gave a lift to a mother and her son. The son has a speech difficulty. His state school told his parents that it could not offer any kind of support. He now spends one or two days a week at Pasitos receiving speech therapy. His mother remarked that parents are often overwhelmed by the problems their children have, but Pasitos has enabled her and her husband to see their son's abilities, not just his speech problem. She was on her way to work at a large supermarket. Her usual shift is 13:00-21:00 with a one hour break.

 

Another story is an example of what can happen if a disabled child does not receive adequate therapy. The lady who cleans the apartment we rent in Bucerías told us that she has an adopted brother. Her mother found him as a very young boy with learning difficulties abandoned on the street and took him into her family – I am not sure whether he was formally adopted or not. The mother was very protective of her adopted son, but he grew up without any therapy to equip him for adult life and cannot read or write. He works in a car spare parts business stacking the shelves folowing careful instructions given to him for each job by the owner. He is 22 years old, the same age as Pasitos de Luz. If his mother had been able to send him to Pasitos his future might have been brighter,

 

My hope is that working with Alison, Giorgia, Llewellyn and other friends in the book industry we can help Pasitos to build a library that will introduce children who face a difficult future to the pleasures of reading. If anybody reading this can direct me to a source of Spanish-language children’s books please email me at: ianjacobsipswich@gmail.com.

 

Financing and improving the care that Pasitos offers free of charge is a constant challenge, as the list of needs on display in the lobby indicates:

 




 

To make a donation to Book Aid International go to: https://bookaid.org/donate/. To support Pasitos friends in Mexico, the USA and Canada can donate at: https://pasitosdeluz.org/donate-1/ Friends in the UK please send me a cheque made out to Ian Jacobs or email me for my bank details. I will then pass your donation to Pasitos.

 

The following photos will give you an impression of the important work carried out at Pasitos.

 

The Pasitos bus arrives:

 


 


Brittany (the little girl with the bow in her hair), who has recently been taught to walk by Pasitos' therapists, has been helped off the bus and will now walk into breakfast.

The dining room for breakfast (which consisted of augua fresca (fruit-flavorued water), scrambled eggs with beans, green beans and tomato, either in a taco or in a bowl, depending on the abilities of the child):

Aarón and Carlitos wait for breakfast.

Ian (sic) gets ready to drink his agua fresca.




Children who can feed themselves have a taco for breakfast.

Chris chats to Chepe, who I helped to eat his breakfast. He loves to high five and shake hands. But I needed help to persuade him to drink his agua fresca.


Jan helps Aarón eat his breakfast.

The books we delivered.


The Pasitos library.

Here I am in the nursery with Chepe, Cristian and Elién. Our game involved putting farmyard vehicles and animals in the house and watching them fall out when Elién or Cristian opened the front door.

We pause playing ball for Elién to pose for a photo.
Jan helped Aarón with a toy that involved pressing or manipulating various shapes to open a lid below which was an animal.

But Elién wanted to share his board book.

Xochi and Elién. We met Xochi three years ago. She now drives her wheelchair like a formula 1 driver and tells me that she goes out and about with her aunt. She also asks many questions until she is satisfied with the answer given. Xochi is an abbreviation of the Nahuatl xochitl, meaning flower. Elién suffers from epileptic fits: hence the headgear.

The therapy pool.
 The Pasitos organic garden:



A papaya tree.

Bananas growing in the garden.

Our tour with Carlos the gardener ends.